Author Archives: Jessica Snell

5 Tips Pros Use to keep their Greens Fresh

Tips for Keeping Greens Fresh

  1. Pick up Greens early while the selection is great, so you can be sure to get exactly what you need for your displays.
  2. Keep Greens in a Shady & Cool location until ready to display. (think north side of buildings)
  3. Spray with WILT PRUF to prevent drying out! Wilt-Pruf® uses a unique Moisture Lock Formula™ that is natural, organic, and provides layers of protection to keep your greens bright and fresh.
  4. Create fresh angled cuts on greens that will be going into pots, vases or centerpieces. (Keep them filled with water and change water out biweekly)
  5. Misting greens that don’t have a water source will help prevent drying out. Mist up to 3 times a week or soak for 15 mins a week in a sink or bath tub.

Plentiful Perennials

There are so many beautiful perennials that it can be overwhelming to chose! Below are some of the easiest, and most attractive perennials to help you narrow in on what you should plant!

Amsonia is a native spring blooming perennial that has beautiful fall color. It’s flowers range from light blue to dark blue and its foliage can be light and airy to bold and beautiful. (pictured above)

Anemones are an easy to grow fall blooming shade perennial. They are available in a range of pink and white flowers and grow well in part shade! (pictured above)

 

Astilbes are a popular shade perennial that have beautiful plums in late spring to early summer. These heavy shade tolerant perennials attract butterflies and are deer & rabbit resistant.

Baptisia is another easy native perennial that can grow anywhere! Their pea-like shaped flowers bloom in late spring -early summer and attract hummingbirds & butterflies. (pictured above)

 

Catmint is one of the longest blooming and easiest perennial! It’s lavender-blue flowers bloom a top of romantic grey-green foliage, on-and-off spring through summer. (pictured above)\

Coneflower is a tough native perennial with daisy like flowers. These trouble free perennials are loved by butterflies, bees, and birds. The flowers come in a wide range of shades; Red, Orange, Yellow, Purple, Pink and White. These drought tolerant, deer resistant perennials bloom in Summer. (pictured above)

Coral bells are the bells of the shade garden (some will grow in sun). They are considered a foliage plant and come in many different shades of green, orange, purple, reds and yellows. Occasionally these deer resistant will push out beautiful pink or white blooms.

Dianthus is an early spring blooming perennial with beautiful spiky blue foliage. Their flower has a spicy clove like scent. With dead heading and feeding these plants can re-bloom throughout the summer. (pictured right)

Heliopsis is also known as false sunflower. This native has beautiful yellow or orange flowers that bloom in late summer to fall. It can grow in tough dry, clay soils and is a great cutting flower.

Hellebores are an evergreen shade perennial that bloom in late winter to early spring. They are super tough and deer resistant.

 

Hosta are a workhorse in a shade garden as long as deer aren’t a nuisance. Their bold leaves come in a wide array of colors and variations. These tough perennials can grow in the toughest of shade gardens and can become addictive to a plant collector!

 

Peroviskia is also known as Russian sage. These tough perennials are deer and rabbit resistant
and bloom in late summer. Their range of blue flowers float above beautiful silvery grey foliage.


Sedums include a large group of sun perennials, which can be divide between creeping sedums and tall sedums. These succulent like perennial will grow in the driest of soils and still bloom and provide nectar to bees!

 

 

Salvias can be known as sage and they bloom in spring and can continue in the summer if given a little TLC. They have spiky purple-blue flowers that are deer and rabbit resistant, while attacking bees, butterflies and hummingbirds

Veronica are late summer blooming perennials that have wands of flowers floating above their foliage. These clumping perennials are tidy for the landscape and attract butterflies.

Blue Stem Grass -Summer through fall, the slender leaves and stems of little bluestem are an ever-changing kaleidoscope of gray-green, blue, pink, purple, copper, mahogany, red, and orange tones. Wispy silver-white seed heads sparkle in autumn sunlight and coppery brown leaves persist through winter.

Perennial of the year – Little Blue Stem Grass (Schizachyrium scopariu)

Little bluestem is a tough and dependable clumping grass that blends well with perennials such as asters, sedums, coneflowers, and other grasses. Native grasses play their part in the pollinator story too. Little bluestem is a larval host for a variety of butterflies and moths such as crossline skipper, Dakota skipper, and Ottoe skipper.

Native to a broad swath of North America, it was one of the dominant grasses of the vast tallgrass prairies. In average to lean, well-drained soils, stems will remain upright but can flop easily if conditions are too rich or moist. Cultivars have been selected for shorter plants, enhanced leaf colors, and stronger stems.

Little bluestem’s spikiness complements native and non-native perennials alike. An easy fit for mass plantings or meadows, it is just as brilliant in traditional borders, gravel gardens, and green roofs. Perfect partners are recent PPOYs such as Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta, Asclepias tuberosa, Stachys ‘Hummelo’, and Allium ‘Millenium’.

 

The Cutting Garden

Tips and Tricks for Creating a Cutting garden

 

Plant with good compost (Bumper Crop is our Favorite) to naturally feed and as the season continues feed with either a granular flower food (Flower-Tone) or a liquid food (Jacks Bloom Booster). Heavy bloomers require more food, roses are a great example of this.

When planting annuals, succession planting helps provide continuous blooms. Repeat sowing 2-3 weeks for zinnias, and cosmos to name a few.

Perennials and shrubs are also great for blooms and foliage, just make sure to plant enough so the blooms won’t be missed outside. We recommend 3 of the same shrub and 5 or more of the same perennial.

Tips to increase the lifespan of cut flowers

  1. Cut flowers in the early morning before they transpire and loose moisture. (Evening is the next best time, while mid-day is not preferred)
  2. Use a sharp pair of scissors or shears (ARS snips are great!), and submerge into water immediately
  3. Remove any foliage from the base of the stem (no leaves should be underwater)
  4. Re-cut stems before putting them in the vase
  5. Make sure you disinfect glass jars in between uses
  6. Place arrangements in a cool room out of direct sunlight
  7. Add Prolong to the water to preserve flowers

Interior Styling with Houseplants

Not only will styling an instagram worthy room make your room more beautiful but it helps set the mood so you can be more relaxed and feel refreshed.

This season take a few extra minutes to stylize your houseplants. Below are a few key points to stylizing but remember trust your eye, after all you are doing this for you! Love your home space and add some greenery!

Add a raised focal point with the trendy macrame hangers. Hanging your houseplant is the perfect solution for those short on space or when your

little one with paws won’t leave the plants alone. Use a trailing plant that gives a full overflowing look. This creates instant drama with texture in the air. Create a jungle vibe by grouping 5 or more plants, be sure to vary the heights. Our go to’s: Pothos, Vining Philodendrons, Sugar Vine, Wandering Jews, and Spider Plants.

Create an elegant entryway. Choose a tall vertical plant, that won’t get in the way but will add a warm welcome for your guests. Our favorite picks: Fiddle Leaf Fig, Snake Plant, Fish Tail Palm, Parlor palm, and Draceana.

For all those who have lots of small to medium plants, create a curated look by gathering them on a beautiful shelf. Don’t forget to mix in a beautiful watering can, mister, or houseplant book! Just be sure that the plants have drip trays or that they are in cache pots (no drainage holes).

Fill that bothersome corner with a cluster of plants. You know that corner that looks bare but when you put a piece of furniture there it looks too full? Houseplants make the perfect statement piece, use a plant stand for elevation. To make your corner look sharp choose the right pots! Pick either matching or harmonious pots to make the corner look intentional.

Who needs cut flowers when lush green foliage lasts forever? For fabulous Table-scapes choose either a 4″ or 6″ upright houseplant. Pair it with a textured planter, for longer tables use multiple plants either two matching or three unique plants. Our Favs include Calatheas, Snake plants, Ferns, Peperomias, Chinese evergreens and succulents. Don’t forget to add a cork saucer under the planter to protect your furniture from moisture and scrapes. 

Poinsettia Care

Poinsettias for the Holidays and Beyond

Poinsettias are a favorite for dressing your home up for the Holidays! With so many new and fabulous colors you are sure to find one to suit your decor!

Light

Poinsettias prefer Bright Indirect Sunlight. This means the sun’s rays don’t travel directly from the sun to your plant but, instead, bounce off something first.

Water

This can vary because everyone’s light situation and house temperature is different. Poinsettias like to me continually slightly moist but never soggy.

In brighter light, they require more frequent watering. In lower light give them time to dry before watering again. It’s always a great idea to test the soil with your finger to test the moisture level.

Temperature and Humidity can also affect watering. The colder the house the slower the plant will dry out, and cold poinsettias hate to be over watered. As Poinsettias are tropical plants they love high humidity and don’t like to be in areas with drying heat ( fireplaces, near heat vents). If you wish to create more humidity for them you have two options. Grouping plants together naturally increases humidity as they themselves transpire. Creating a pebble tray is also a great option. To do this grab an extra plant saucer, fill it will small pebbles  (1-2″) then keep it filled with water. Place the plant on top of the pebbles, as the water evaporates the humidity around the plant increases.

Temperature

Generally, if you are comfortable, so is your poinsettia. Cooler (but not cold!) temperatures will be better than hotter areas, but you must avoid sudden chills (close doors that get open to outside) . Temperatures between 68-70° Fahrenheit are great for them.

Another tip is that Poinsettias prefer room-temperature water, and smaller pots need watering more often than big ones because they dry out faster. Remove any excess water that is still in the saucer (or planters that don’t drain) after 10 minutes.

After the Holidays

Keep up with the watering of your Poinsettia. In April prune it back hard to about 4″. Then keep it in the house. In May you can repot it and keep it in a cool (65-74 degrees F) and light place over summer.

Middle of October to beginning of November its time to “force” or encourage the Poinsettia to Bloom. It will require 12 hours of bright daylight followed by 12 hours of complete darkness. This will tell the bracts to turn colors.

 

Gifts For Her

Gifts For Her

Decorative Throws –  add a Book to make a Winter Package she will enjoy all through the colder months.

Thymes Products- Come in so many wonderful scents they are sure to be a win! Thymes products include Grab and Go gift sets of lotions or Frasier Fir signature scent. They also have perfume, lotions, soaps, candles, bath salts and more.

Hummingbird Feeders

Garden Gloves pair great with a beautifully wrapped bar soap

Botanical Interest Seeds

Windchimes

 

 

 

 

 

Vegetable Garden Tips

Quick vegetable garden tips for June:

If you haven’t planted warm-weather veggies and fruits such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash and blueberries, there is still time!

For those empty spots in the garden plant warm-weather herbs like basil, chives, thyme and rosemary. Not only can you use them in drinks but they are great for grilling too! Did you know that planting basil by your other veggies will keep bugs away?

Harvest early-season staples like strawberries, lettuce greens, radishes and peas as they ripen, leaving them on the plant can signal them to stop producing.

Harvest herbs before they flower, they’ll taste better. Prevent Basil and other herbs from flowering by trimming frequently and keeping them on the cooler side by watering or providing shade.

Keep your tomatoes tied up to stakes or place tomato cages over them so they do not spill on to your other vegetables. Try collapsible cages that make storage easier.

In the summer providing your tomatoes with deep and consistent watering (once a week)  will produce the best tomato.

Watch out for pesky bugs in the garden, the sooner you catch them the easier it is to get rid of them.

Fertilize the garden with tomato tone every 3 weeks during June, July and August.

 

Grow Asparagus

Asparagus is one of the longest living vegetable you can have in your garden, it can live 12-15 years. Take advantage of this valuable, early vegetable that is adapted to freezer storage and plant some today!

Since asparagus is longer lived it generally takes longer to get growing. While you can start them by seed we strongly recommend starting with asparagus crowns that are 1-2 years old. We carry only the male varieties of asparagus as they are better producers.

Inspect the crowns when you are purchasing them, making sure they feel full and moist. Once you purchase the crowns be sure they don’t dry out by keeping them moist but not soaking. Misting occasionally and keeping them in a shady & cool but not freezing location will keep them healthy.

Choose the Perfect Site

The most important part about planting asparagus is choosing a location where they can live for the length of their life. Since the asparagus foliage grows tall in summer and can flop, make sure you place them where they will not shade other sun loving vegetables. This means the perfect spot for them in a vegetable garden is the northern side. If that isn’t available the next best area is the western exposure.

Ensure that site has full sun ???? (6 hrs +) and has good drainage (clay should be broken up with pine mulch) . Enrich the bed with good compost (our favorite is Bumper Crop).

Traditionally, asparagus crowns are set in a trench 12-inches deep and 12- to 18-inches wide, with 4 to 5 feet between trenches. But many gardeners are successful placing crowns in the bottom of a 6 inch trench. Crowns should be spaced 15 to 18 inches apart and raised slightly above the roots. Remove any rotted roots before planting. Spread the roots out over a 2-inch mound of soil at the bottom of the trench and cover the crown completely with soil. Firm well and keep the bed well watered.

It is important to keep the weeds at bay, especially before the first shoots come up. If need you can use corn gluten which prevents weed seeds from germinating and is organic.

Harvesting Asparagus

  • Harvest Asparagus lightly in their second year for only 3-4 weeks, as the root systems are still developing. If you harvest too heavily while the plant is young it will become weakened.
  • If planting from seed do not harvest for the first two season, and only lightly the third.
  •  When the asparagus plants are in their fourth season, harvest for 8 to 10 weeks per year.
  • Harvest spears daily during the harvest period. The 6- to 8-inch spears should be snapped off just below the soil surface. If the asparagus is allowed to get much taller, the bases of the spears will be tough and will have to be cut. Cutting too deeply can injure the crown buds, which produce the next spears. To blanch (whiten) the spears, mound soil around them or otherwise exclude light so they do not form chlorophyll in the stalks.
  • Allow the spears to grow once the harvest is over (after 8 to 10 weeks). Some gardeners prefer to support the growing foliage with stakes and strings to keep the bed tidy. In high-wind areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel to the prevailing winds so that the plants support each other to some extent.
    • There are several ways to extend the harvest period

      • Plant at different depths (4”, 6”, 8”, 10”). The shallower plantings will come up first and can be harvested while the deeper plantings are just forming. This method will result in a slightly longer harvest, but the plants may be less vigorous.
      •  Remove mulch from half of the asparagus bed and leave mulch on the other half. The exposed soils will warm up more quickly, and the crowns will sprout earlier. Remove mulch from the second bed when spears begin to appear.
      • Plant double the amount of asparagus needed for your household. Harvest half of the plants as you normally would in spring and early summer and allow the ferns to grow in the other half of the asparagus planting. Then, cut the ferns in the un-harvested plot in late July. The crowns will send up new spears, which can be harvested till late in the season. Keep plants well-watered. A light mulch will aid in spear emergence. When using this method, harvest the spring bed only in spring and the fall bed only in fall. Otherwise you risk weakening the crowns.