Author Archives: D.R. Snell Nursery

Fairy Garden Magic

Do you think your tiny balcony terrace means you can’t have a grand garden? Are you looking for a clever and imaginative way to introduce a child to the world of plants? Have you ever dreamed of your own “McGregor’s Garden?” One of the newest gardening trends can do all these and a whole lot more!

Start planning…and playing…in your fairy garden!

About Fairy Gardens

One of the newest gardening trends, fairy gardening is the new-and-improved miniature gardening of yesteryear with all sorts of new products, idea books and plants. Despite their small size, the themes, designs and creativity of these tiny garden spaces is boundless. Any container, nearly any type of plant and any type of design can add a bit of garden magic even to a tiny space. Go small and have fun.

Designing a Fairy Garden

You can create your fairy garden just about anywhere. For portability, consider a pot, basin or terrarium. Or, for a more rustic appeal, plant an old lunchbox, garden bucket or child’s wagon. Old shoes, a stack of broken pots, a rusty wheelbarrow or a concrete bird bath are other great planting options.

Fairy gardens can be positioned anywhere. A smaller design can be a fun centerpiece to patio furniture, or it can be part of an entryway display. To heighten the intrigue, find a secret place in your own garden to lure the garden fairies. Between tree roots, beside a water feature or in a grove under flowering shrubs… The possibilities are endless.

Design the overall look of your fairy garden just as you would a larger garden. What is its theme? Is it a fantasyland for unicorns? A gnome family farm? A replica of your own big house? It can be anything you imagine. Consider tiers, layers and depth as well to create a truly impactful scene in your miniature fairy world.

If you’re having trouble coming up with an idea, visit your garden center to check out all the products. If you need some inspiration, our Enchanted Garden products by Grassland Road will get you started. Whimsical and charming, they’ll help you create your own mini-fantasy scene. From arbors and benches to umbrellas and miniature tools, the possibilities are amazing. If you’re not sure your resident garden fairies will understand your invitation, you can always buy a mannequin fairy to entice them to share the fun.

This visit also sets the mind whirling with ideas for plant materials. Consider the mixture of colors, textures, shapes, and scents… in miniature. Tiny groundcovers such as moss or creeping thyme create beautiful “lawns.” Pebbles become paths. Sand creates shores. Twigs make houses, fences and other structures. What can you do with a small pinecone or acorn? How can you recreate a Disney-type pumpkin carriage?

Creativity knows no limits, and the fairies will love you for it!

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Entrance Way Evergreens

Cool and classic or chic and contemporary, no matter what your style, you’ll always be proud of an entrance flanked with beautiful containers highlighting just-right evergreens. In this case, “evergreen” doesn’t necessarily mean a conifer, either – many other shrubs remain green in the winter and can be beautiful showpieces welcoming guests to your home.

Planting Your Container

Entrance way evergreens are generally planted in containers and frame a doorway, walkway or arch. If you truly want your evergreens to take center stage, opt for more understated, neutral containers, but select shapes that match the architecture of your home. You can opt for a boldly colored container, but take care that the container’s decorations won’t overwhelm your evergreens.

You will want to use high quality potting soil for the container to provide adequate nutrition for your evergreens to thrive. Also pay careful attention to the moisture levels, watering the plants appropriately – containers often need more frequent watering than plants in your landscape. You can rotate the containers regularly to help the plants get even sun exposure, and regular fertilizing will help keep them healthy.

If you’re not sure how to plant a container, try this simple formula: “Use a thriller, filler and spiller.” Thriller refers to the tallest or showiest plant, the one that immediately catches the eye. The fillers are the plants surrounding the thriller that add more structure and bulk to the arrangement, filling in empty spaces. The spillers are plants to grow over, and soften, the edge of the container, giving it a more natural, organic look.

Here’s a listing of “thriller” plants to consider for your door decor. We can make recommendations of dwarf cultivars of many of these plants. Dwarfs will take longer to out-grow their container. Happy potting!

  • Shade
  • Azalea*
  • Boxwood
  • Camellia*
  • Evergreen Viburnum*
  • Japanese Andromeda*
  • Heavenly Bamboo*
  • Mountain Laurel*
  • Sun
  • Arborvitae
  • False Cypress
  • Juniper
  • Heavenly Bamboo*
  • Holly
  • Pine
  • Spruce
  • Yews
  • Yucca*


* These plants flower!

Accents for Your Entrance Evergreens

In addition to welcoming your visitors with a beautiful entrance, it’s easy to entertain them and show your style when you accessorize your evergreens. Festively dress your plants to coordinate with seasons or holidays. Fun and creative options include…

  • Spring: Small bunnies, silk spring blooms such as daffodils, pastel Easter eggs
  • Summer: Patriotic flags or ribbons for Memorial Day and the Fourth of July
  • Fall: Scarecrows, pumpkins, Indian corn, Halloween decorations
  • Winter: Holly sprigs, tiny twinkling lights, beaded garlands, snowflake ornaments

You can also personalize your entrance evergreens for birthdays, anniversaries or to showcase your favorite teams, colleges, hobbies and more. All are easy to do, fun, and affordable, and make your entrance truly eye-catching.

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Healthy Soil: Winter Cover Crops

It’s fall and our annual and vegetable gardens are winding down for the season. Now is the time to invest a little extra time and effort to prepare your soil for next year. Whether your garden is large or small, all annual planting beds will benefit from the addition of a winter cover crop.

Benefits of Cover Crops

A cover crop is a fast-growing, low-maintenance crop that can be used to protect your garden and landscaping beds in fall and winter. Depending on the crop you choose, it can provide many benefits to your garden, including…

  • Stabilizing soil and preventing erosion
  • Adding organic matter back into the soil to nurture later crops
  • Adding nutrients to the soil that have been used by previous crops
  • Suppressing disease that can wither new crops even before they start
  • Repressing weeds that will take over a garden
  • Improving soil structure with aeration and better drainage
  • Encouraging beneficial insects that will help later crops

Recommended Cover Crops

Different cover crops work best in different areas, and the climate, soil type and growing season will help determine which cover crops will work best for your gardening needs. The most popular recommended cover crops for our area are oats, rye and wheat.

  • Oats
    Sow 6-8 weeks before the first hard frost. Planted early, oats will provide a quick covering with the added benefit of providing an early planting time for next spring’s crops. Oats are not winter hardy, but they will grow in the fall and die in the winter, leaving behind nutritious mulch that will easily decompose when incorporated into the soil in the spring. This is a great cover crop choice for low- or no-till gardens. Sow at 2 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. for the best coverage.
  • Winter Rye
    Sow 2-4 weeks before the first hard frost. This is a good choice for gardeners who have late season crops and don’t want to cut off that last harvest. If hardened off before frost arrives, winter rye will continue to grow over the winter. Rye is a vigorous grower and can be difficult to turn in the spring, so bear that in mind depending on what crops you will be planting in spring. Sow at 3-4 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for appropriate coverage.
  • Winter Wheat
    Sow 2-4 weeks before the first hard frost. Wheat will cover quickly but is not as aggressive as winter rye. Winter wheat is also leafier, making it easier than winter rye to turn into the soil in the spring. Sow at 3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. to provide good coverage.

Cornell University provides a tool to assist you in choosing the correct cover crop for your situation. (http://covercrops.cals.cornell.edu/decision-tool.php)

Planting Cover Crops

Before planting a cover crop, clean out garden beds, removing all roots and plant material. Compost all plant matter that is not diseased. Broadcast seed evenly and cover with soil. Water thoroughly when planting and when necessary during dry periods. In the spring, till or fork oats into the planting bed and you are ready to plant. For winter rye and wheat, mow or chop tops 4 weeks before planting leaving cut cover crop on top to dry. Till or fork dried wheat and rye into the bed before planting.

With the appropriate cover crop, you can protect your garden’s most valuable asset – the soil – and be sure it is ready for spring planting.

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Winter Pond Prep Checklist

Your pond can be an attractive and valuable focal point of your landscaping, but it can also be a delicate one. As winter approaches, certain steps should be taken to ensure plant and fish survival so your pond will still be at its best next spring.

  1. Clean Out Debris
    Use a netted scooper, a rake, your hands and, if possible, a pond vacuum to clean out pond debris. Rotting vegetation produces gas under winter ice that can be fatal to fish, frogs or other aquatic wildlife. This is also a good time to reduce any mud coverage over the pond’s bottom.
  2. Trim Pond Plants
    Trim and move hardy pond plants to the deep end of the pond (minimum 18” depth) to prevent them from freezing. Cut their vegetative growth back to about one inch above the soil line. Extra foliage will be more delicate and could rot over the winter. Especially be sure to trim any foliage that is already broken, wilting or damaged.
  3. Remove Tropical Plants
    Tropical plants or any delicate vegetation should be removed from the pond and placed in a basement or garage where they will not freeze. Keep plants moist throughout the fall and winter months until it is time to return them to the pond.
  4. Disassemble Summer Equipment
    Remove and clean the pond pump and waterfall or fountain feature (if applicable). Store them inside for the winter. See your maintenance guidelines for proper storage recommendations to keep the equipment in peak condition.
  5. Clean Pond Filter
    Thoroughly clean the pond filter and inspect it for any damage. If necessary, repair or replace the filter.
  6. Change Fish Diet
    Feed fish with spring/autumn food mixtures to provide good nutrition for their slowing metabolism. Stop feeding them completely when temperatures drop consistently below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid overfeeding, which would contribute to excess debris and decay in the pond over the winter.
  7. Set Up Pond Heater
    If needed, set up your pond heater for winter use. Test the equipment to be sure it is functioning properly and make any repairs or adjustments as needed.
  8. Cover the Pond
    Cover your pond with netting, screening or a shade cloth to minimize debris that will fall into the water throughout the winter. Secure the perimeter with sod staples or rocks to prevent the covering from blowing away. This will make spring cleanup and restarting your pond much easier.
  9. Relax until spring!
    Your pond will be ready for warmer temperatures when you are.

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Birdscaping

As wildlife habitats are threatened by development, the creation of a bird-friendly environment that provides food, water and shelter is crucial to the existence of our wild bird population. Caring for our feathered-friends is an educational and enjoyable activity for the entire family that brings beauty and song to our lives.

Benefits of Wild Birds

Birds are great guests to have in your yard, garden or landscape, and they provide more benefits than many homeowners and gardeners realize. Wild birds can…

  • Control insects by feasting on both flying and crawling insects, as well as spiders, slugs, snails and other creepy-crawlies.
  • Pollinate plants by flitting from flower to flower as they seek out insects or eat seeds, taking pollen along between blooms.
  • Manage weeds as they consume copious amounts of weed seeds before the seeds ever have a chance to sprout.
  • Control rodents when raptors visit the yard in search of mice, rats, gophers, voles or other unwanted pests.

Attracting Backyard Birds

Fortunately, it is easy to attract a wide variety of backyard birds when you offer them what they need most – food, water and shelter.

Food for Birds

Wild birds rely on both natural and supplemental food supplies so it is important to consider both when birdscaping. Feeding the birds is most important in the winter when natural food is scarcer, but they will visit feeders at any time of year. Migratory birds require additional food in the spring and fall as they pass through the region and nesting birds will utilize feeders in the summer.

Tips:

  • Provide a variety of natural foods for birds by planting berry bushes, seed-bearing flowers, nectar-rich flowers and sunflowers. Leave windfall fruit on the ground for birds to nibble. Minimize pesticide use so birds can feast on insects as well.
  • Add supplemental feeders to your yard, such as birdseed feeders, suet feeders and nectar feeders. Clean feeders weekly to avoid mold that can be dangerous to birds, and be sure feeders are full when birds need them most.

Water

Improve your backyard bird habitat by adding water. Birds require a constant supply of clean water for drinking and bathing. This is especially important in late summer, when water is scarce, and in the winter, when it is frequently frozen.

Tips:

  • Place bird baths in a protected location safe from predators, and keep the baths filled at all times so a fresh supply of water is constantly available.
  • Scrub off algae as soon as it is appears and thoroughly was the bird bath each week to minimize feces contamination or other messes in the water.
  • Provide motion for greater attraction by using a bubbler, wiggler, dripper or fountain. Birds will see the sparkles of the moving water and will hear the splashes from great distances, so more birds will visit.
  • Use Mosquito Dunks to safely prevent mosquito larvae in warm weather. A clean bird bath with moving water will also harbor fewer insects.
  • Add an outdoor-safe submersible heater to the bath in winter to keep the water liquid instead of frozen, or consider using a fully heated bird bath during the coldest months.

Shelter

It is important to offer safe and comfortable shelter for your wild birds to nurture their young, protect them from predators and shield them from the elements. Planting evergreen trees and shrubs and providing bird houses, along with roosting boxes and pockets, are all beneficial additions to your birdscape.

Tips:

  • Choose both deciduous and evergreen landscaping trees and shrubs to offer birds different types of shelter in all seasons.
  • Minimize pruning to give birds denser, more secure shelter to take advantage of when they feel threatened.
  • Plant in layers and create thicket-like pockets or corridors in your landscape so birds can move around freely without feeling exposed.
  • Supplement the shelter in your yard with good quality bird houses, winter roost boxes or nesting pockets to give birds even more options to stay safe and secure.

When you meet birds’ needs for food, water and shelter, your birdscape will soon be home to a fun and friendly flock of backyard birds.

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Delightful Daffodils

Spring flowering bulbs are a must for every garden. They provide cheerful early-season color at a time when it is most needed, both in the landscape and by our winter weary souls. Daffodils are some of the most delightful Spring flowering bulbs! What makes them so delightful is their ease of care, diversity in their flower color, size, shape and fragrance, resistance to pests and disease, and their carefree ability to increase and return year after year, with little effort.  

Daffodil Selection

Did you know that there are over 32,000 registered cultivars of daffodils? This number gives us some indication of the immense diversity of this flowering bulb with some varieties being easier to find than others. As you become more familiar with, and addicted to delightful daffodils, you will never get tired of adding more of these intriguing bulbs to your collection, possibly seeking out a few hard-to-find ones as well.

Note: All daffodils are narcissus, but not all narcissus are daffodils. For the sake of simplicity, we will refer to all narcissus and daffodils mentioned in this article as daffodils. Their care is the same and separating them will only complicate matters.  

Daffodils require a cold period to bloom. Most daffodils will flower best in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 and lower. If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 and higher, there are some daffodils that will do well in your area, or you may purchase pre-chilled bulbs. It will help to work with your local garden center to determine which daffodils do best in your particular area.

All daffodils bloom in the Spring. Within the Spring season, some will bloom early, mid-season, and late. Knowing when a particular daffodil flowers, will allow you to plant varieties for a succession of blooms to extend the whole season. As you begin growing daffodils, it may be easiest to choose some of the most popular and easy-to-find varieties

Early-season Bloomers

  • Barrette Browning – white petals with small orange cup, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant. 
  • Rijnveld – golden yellow, 15 inches tall, delightfully fragrant.
  • Tete a Tete – buttercup yellow, multi-flowering, miniature at 6 to 8 inches tall, fragrant.

Mid-season Bloomers

  • Dutch Master – large, golden-yellow daffodil, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant.
  • Ice Follies – creamy white petals with a pale-yellow cup, 20 inches tall, lightly scented. 
  • Pink Charm – ivory petals with a coral-colored cup, 18 inches tall, fragrant.
  • Professor Einstein – snow white petals with a reddish-orange cup, 16 to 18 inches tall, fragrant.

Late-season Bloomers

  • Acetaea – pure white petals with a small gold cup rimmed in red, 1 to 1 ½ feet tall, fragrant.  
  • Cheerfulness – small flowering, multi-flowering and multi-stemmed, white double flowers with pale yellow flecks, 1 to 2 feet tall, very fragrant.
  • Tahiti – large, double flowering daffodil, bright golden-yellow with bright orange ruffled cup, 16 inches tall, fragrant. 
  • Thalia – downward facing, pure white flowers with 2 to 3 flowers per stem, 1 foot tall, very fragrant.

Planting Daffodils

Daffodils are purchased and planted in the Fall for Spring blooms and are extremely easy to plant…. easy as dig, drop and done!

  • Plant daffodils in a sunny to part-shady, well-drained site.
  • Daffodils may be planted in single holes, rows, or in groupings. 
  • Place daffodil bulbs 6 inches deep, pointy side up.
  • If the native soil is of poor quality or does not drain well, consider amending the soil with a quality compost.
  • Add bone meal to the planting area, to stimulate strong root development, before backfilling the area or holes with soil. 
  • No need for deer or rodent protection, these bulbs are pest proof!
  • Water area after planting daffodils and wait for Spring!

With such wide diversity in one group of flowering bulbs, considerable beauty, ample fragrance, significant bloom time, and substantial pest resistance, wouldn’t you agree that daffodils are delightful?

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Fall Chrysanthemums

No flower is more iconic of autumn than the chrysanthemum, and these beautiful mounding perennials are ideal for fall flowerbeds, pots, window boxes, borders, and many other uses. How will you get creative with chrysanthemums this fall?

Why We Love Chrysanthemums

Just when many other flowers are fading at the end of summer, chrysanthemums, or mums, are coming into their glory with a range of stunning autumn colors. Depending on the cultivar, these plants sport yellow, white, red, orange, bronze, pink, peach, wine, purple, and bicolored blooms. The flowers range from small, button-like blossoms to larger blooms reminiscent of daisies. Mum blooms are long-lasting when cut and they’re just as lovely in floral arrangements and bouquets as they are planted in containers, flowerbeds, and the landscape. This makes mums extremely useful for all manner of autumn décor.

Chrysanthemums are native to east Asia and northern Europe and were first domestically cultivated in China nearly 600 years ago. Today, there are more than 20,000 chrysanthemum cultivars worldwide. They are deer- and rabbit-resistant, making them a hardy option for landscaping beds, and with a bit of thoughtful care, these tender perennials can be a wonderful addition to any flower garden or fall containers.

Caring for Chrysanthemums

The hardiness of chrysanthemums depends on the cultivar as well as the local climate and even the microclimate in your landscape. These flowers prefer well-drained, rich soil with a neutral pH, so it is best to use a good quality potting soil in containers. When planting chrysanthemums in the garden or landscape, mixing compost or peat moss in the planting hole will help increase drainage and nourish the soil to promote the best blooms. A good rule of thumb is that if soil is good for vegetables, it will also be good for mums – making them a wonderful choice to refresh a garden after the summer harvest has finished.

Chrysanthemums grow best in full sun requiring a minimum of six hours per day. If mums are planted in containers, consider using a mobile plant cart or a stand with casters so  that the pots may be moved to brighter areas, if needed, as the season progresses.

Chrysanthemums prefer evenly moist, but not soggy, soil. Because of their thick, mounding habit, it is best to water mums from below suing a soaker hose or irrigation drip system in garden beds. In pots, mums should again be watered from below the plant but above the soil line. A watering wand will make this job direct and easy. Be sure to drain excess water from saucers after watering so the roots do not remain continually wet.

Fertilizing chrysanthemums every month through the spring and early summer, with a balanced fertilizer, will help them grow and bloom well, but if mums are planted in the Fall, they should not need extra feeding as long as they were planted in rich, nutritious soil. Deadheading spent blooms by pinching them back can encourage more flowering and help mums maintain their compact, mounding habit.

Decorating with Fall Mums

Chrysanthemums are a beautiful choice not only in the garden, but are equally lovely in welcoming porch pots, deck or patio containers, or even small indoor pots and arrangements. Add an extra touch of fall with rustic containers, such as wine barrels, baskets, or terra cotta pots, or glam up your mums in hammered copper or bronze pots that will accentuate their color. A burlap ribbon or bow can be a charming accent, and you can give more seasonal flair to mum arrangements or flowerbeds by adding pumpkins and gourds as fun decorations. Indoors, use small pails or pots for petit mum arrangements, or add them to larger arrangements with grain sprigs, dried pods, colorful leaves, or twists of grapevine for additional texture.

Fall chrysanthemums can be a pleasant burst of autumn color, whether they are part of the landscape or are used in containers, pots, or arrangements and we carry a wide selection to make your fall home suit the season!

Growing Garlic

Richly flavorful and packed with health benefits, garlic is a great ingredient for all your favorite savory dishes. Growing garlic is very easy and helps you keep a ready supply of this root vegetable (often also referred to as an herb or spice) on hand for quick access and instant flavoring.

Health Benefits of Garlic

Garlic, which is related to onions, shallots, and leeks, has many documented health benefits, making it a worthwhile addition to your diet. This bulb vegetable is segmented into cloves, and may yield 10-20 cloves per bulb. Just a clove or two added to different dishes can…

  • Boost immune function, minimizing colds and other minor ailments
  • Reduce blood pressure to improve cardiovascular health
  • Lower bad cholesterol levels and the risk of heart attack or stroke
  • Reduce bone loss risk, particularly in older women
  • Lower inflammation to improve arthritis and joint function

The health benefits of garlic are so well known that the plant has featured prominently in the medical treatments of different cultures for centuries, including the ancient Babylonians, Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and Chinese. Today, many doctors continue to promote garlic as part of a healthy diet.

Tips for Growing Garlic

Fresh garlic has the most health benefits and is the most flavorful. It’s easy to grow garlic either in the garden – it is resistant to both deer and rabbits, making it ideal for borders to protect other produce – or in kitchen pots for easy access for all your cooking. To make the most of growing garlic…

  • Choose organic or locally grown garlic to grow. These cloves won’t have chemical treatments that could inhibit growth, and you will be able to monitor exactly what care your garlic receives.
  • Opt for hardneck garlic in northern climates because it is hardier, whereas softneck garlic can easily be grown in mild climates. If you will grow garlic indoors, either variety is suitable.
  • Choose large, firm cloves without any signs of damage, softening, or bruising for the best growth and largest crop to harvest.
  • Provide a cooling period of 6-8 weeks in the refrigerator for hardneck garlic, which requires a dormant period for optimal sprouting. Softneck garlic does not need as much cooling.
  • Use a pot at least eight inches deep so cloves have plenty of room to develop, and the pot should have abundant drainage holes to prevent root rot.
  • Space cloves at least 3-4 inches apart, or plant just one clove in each pot so the bulbs have adequate room for full development.
  • Use organically rich potting soil, or amend garden soil with compost to nourish young garlic. The soil should be loose and well-draining so garlic bulbs aren’t cramped.
  • Leave the papery skin on cloves for planting, and position cloves pointy-side up, 3 inches down into the soil. Cover the soil with a light layer of mulch or straw for protection.
  • Position garlic where it will receive 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Indoors, a south- or west-facing window is ideal, or use a supplement grow light to help garlic grow best.
  • Feed garlic carefully, using natural fertilizer, compost, or a high-phosphorus blend specially formulated for larger, healthy bulbs.
  • Water garlic well. The soil should be uniformly moist but not overly soggy, or the bulbs will rot and be unable to flourish.
  • If temperatures drop, protect garlic pots by wrapping them in insulating bubble wrap, carpet, or straw bales. For garden garlic, a layer of mulch will help keep soil temperatures even.

Harvesting Your Garlic

Garlic is slow-growing and will take 7-9 months before fresh bulbs can be harvested. When approximately 50-70 percent of the green tops of garlic plants begin to turn yellow or brown, the bulb is mature and ready to harvest. Use a hand rank or garden fork to carefully loosen soil around the garlic, gently lifting the bulb. Avoid bruising, scratching, or breaking the bulb, which would cause it to rot.

Gently wipe off excess dirt from the bulb, but leave the paper covering intact. Trim off the roots and stalks, and place the fresh bulbs loosely in paper bags in a cool, dry spot for 1-2 weeks. Air circulation should be good to cure the bulbs evenly, and garlic should be stored in a cool, dry place until it is ready to use, or until the best resulting cloves have been dormant long enough to plant and start the cycle over again for even more fresh garlic to enjoy.

Creating a Low-Maintenance Landscape

Looking for a landscape design that delivers curb appeal without demanding your weekends? It might be time to discover the benefits of decorative stone! Stone, rock, and gravel offer practical, polished solutions that minimize upkeep, maximize style, and provide significant long-term savings. If you’re eager to take yard maintenance off your to-do list without sacrificing an attractive outdoor space, you’re in the right place! D.R. Snell is here to guide you through everything you need to know about creating a stunning, low-maintenance landscape with rock.

Why Choose Rock?

Decorative rock landscapes go far beyond simple aesthetics. When you invest in a rock-based design, you’re choosing function, longevity, and a welcome break from repetitive yard work. Here are some core reasons why more property owners are switching to rock:

Long-Lasting Impact

Unlike wood mulch, which decomposes and demands frequent replenishing, decorative stone persists for five years, a decade, or even longer. Rock holds its color, resists breakdown, and keeps your yard looking consistent year after year. This translates into more time and money saved on outdoor upkeep.

Excellent Weed Suppression

When properly installed over quality landscape fabric, decorative rock forms a powerful physical barrier that blocks most weeds from emerging. This simple step reduces your need for herbicides and slashes your time spent on hands-and-knees weeding.

Minimal Watering

While organic mulch can help retain moisture, it often requires maintenance and doesn’t reduce the need for watering as much as you might think. Rock needs no watering at all. When paired with drought-tolerant plants, such as succulents, or xeriscaping, a rock landscape becomes a water-efficient solution offering both immediate and long-term environmental benefits.

No Decomposition or Pest Risk

Mulch is organic, which means it breaks down over time and can invite termites, ants, and pests. Rock, on the other hand, never decomposes, attracts fewer pests, and stays put even during heavy storms or wind. This results in a cleaner, more predictable landscape.

Fire Resistant & Durable

Decorative stone adds a layer of fire resistance to your property, which is especially critical in wildfire-prone regions. Rocks don’t burn, and they serve as a natural buffer near outbuildings, fences, or homes.

Where to Use Rock?

At D.R. Snell, we often hear customers ask, “Where exactly should I use decorative rock?” The answer is almost anywhere! Rock is one of the most versatile materials in landscaping, offering beauty and durability in every corner of your outdoor space.

Long-Term Garden Beds

Start by replacing mulch in your permanent garden beds. Decorative stone stays in place longer, resists fading, and won’t break down like wood chips, making it a significant upgrade around shrubs, trees, and perennials.

Patios, Paths, & Seating Areas

Rock is also ideal around patios, along walkways, and under outdoor seating or play areas where grass struggles to grow. It provides a smart, low-maintenance solution that maintains high curb appeal. It also performs beautifully in high-traffic zones, such as front entrances, signage beds, or along driveways, especially where you want a tidy, professional look without constant upkeep.

Types of Landscape Rock

With such variety in shape, color, and texture, landscape rock is more than just functional—it’s a stunning design element. Some popular options include:

  • River Rock: Smooth, rounded stones available in multiple colors and sizes. Perfect for naturalistic designs, dry creek beds, and defining garden borders.
  • Crushed Limestone: Clean and tightly compacting, making it ideal for driveways, walkways, and fire pit zones.
  • Pea Gravel: Small pebbles that provide comfort underfoot. Excellent for patios, playgrounds, or paths.
  • Slate Chips: Angular and modern, often used for high-contrast, contemporary beds and commercial plantings.
  • Decomposed Granite: A firm, drainage-friendly surface that packs tightly for paths, patios, or even outdoor seating areas.
  • Lava Rock: Lightweight, porous, and bold in color. Offers excellent drainage and a distinctive aesthetic for specific applications.

Selecting the right rock can enhance both function and visual appeal, so consider the colors and textures that harmonize with your home’s exterior or business brand.

Maintenance Tips

A landscape built with stone offers impressive reductions in maintenance, but a little effort goes a long way toward keeping it pristine. Consider these proven tips:

  • Install High Quality Landscape Fabric: Always start with a professional-grade fabric beneath the stone. This keeps weeds at bay, allows rainwater through, and prevents rocks from mixing with the soil below.
  • Refresh the Surface Layer Occasionally: Over time, tracks and settling may cause heavily trafficked areas to thin out. Adding a fresh top layer every few years will restore uniformity and color vibrancy.
  • Use Proper Edging for Containment: Edge beds with steel, concrete, or stone borders to prevent rock migration into lawns or other planting areas.
  • Keep Debris Under Control: Use a blower or light rake to clear leaves and organic matter in fall and spring.
  • Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: For added security against weeds, treat beds with pre-emergent product once or twice a year, or as needed.
  • Rinse Rocks: If dust or mud builds up, rinse with a garden hose or use a pressure washer on the lowest setting to restore their natural look as needed.

How to Select the Right Materials

How does decorative stone compare with organic mulch or a turf-heavy yard? Here’s a breakdown:

Material Maintenance Level Best Applications Longevity
Rock Very Low Permanent Beds 5 – 10+ years
Mulch Moderate Flower Beds
Annual Gardens		 1 – 2 years
Turf High Play Areas
Lawns
Dog Runs		 Ongoing

If your goals include lasting impact, hassle-free ownership, or improved property value, rock is typically the standout choice.

Stunning Results with Minimal Effort

A well-designed rock landscape offers lasting beauty with minimal work. The right mix of stones can add dynamic texture, highlight architectural features, and give your property a cohesive, professional appearance. By making smart choices up front, you can achieve eye-catching curb appeal and enjoy true low-maintenance living for years to come.

D.R. Snell provides an extensive range of landscape stone, from classic river rock to dramatic granite chips. Our staff is ready to help you calculate quantities, select complementary rock types, and even assist you with installation. Whether you’re revamping a single bed or tackling a multi-acre project, we’re here to help every step of the way.

Kale, the Super Food

Did you know kale is a super food? Kale belongs to the same family as cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts. It is a rich source of vitamins C, A, & B6, and is loaded with manganese, calcium, copper and potassium, with no fat or cholesterol. Add it to your garden for a healthy harvest!

Planting

In the fall, set out transplants or sow kale seeds about 6-8 weeks before first frost in deep rich soil. Kale will need at least 6 hours of sun per day. Enrich your planting soil with plenty of compost. Planting kale in nutritious soil will promote faster plant growth and thus provide a tender, richer crop. Soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8. Sow seeds roughly one-half inch deep and thin seedlings to 8-12 inches apart to provide adequate air circulation. When thinning kale shoots, however, bear in mind that larger spacing will produce larger plants, larger plants produce larger leaves and larger leaves are generally tougher. Keep soil moist and mulch to control weeds. Water when planting and during dry spells.

Harvesting

Don’t worry about frost harming your harvest, a light frost will only enhance the sweetness of kale. Harvest the outer leaves of kale as they are needed for salads and recipes. Young tender leaves will grow from the center of the plant. Use the young leaves for salads and keep older leaves for cooking, which will help tenderize those larger leaves. Kale will continue to produce throughout fall in the warmer sections of our area. In low lying areas or where it is colder, use floating row covers or low tunnels to extend the life of your kale. Kale will bolt (elongate) and flower in the spring. This signifies the end, and it is time to pull it up and compost the remaining plant.

Cooking

Kale may be used fresh or frozen. It may be steamed or stir-fried, or used in soups, stews, omelets and casseroles. It is a tasty base for salads or can be added to sandwiches. It may be used in recipes as a replacement for spinach and collard greens. It even makes fantastic chips!

Kale Chips

  • Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Clean Kale and spin dry. Remove all the tough stems.
  • Drizzle about 8 cups of leaves with one tablespoon of olive oil and toss to coat.
  • Place Kale leaves in a single layer on a parchment lined cookie sheet.
  • Bake for 10-15 minutes or until leaves are crisp but not scorched.
  • Remove from oven and immediately sprinkle with generous amount of flaky sea salt.
  • Devour!

With so many tasty options for kale and so many nutritional benefits from this super food, there’s no excuse not to add this easy-to-grow dietary wonder to your garden!

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