Often mistaken for one another, heath (Erica) and heather (Calluna) look amazingly similar. To confuse things further, heath is frequently referred to as “spring heather” and some landscapers, garden centers and nurseries may use the names interchangeably. Both types of plants belong to the Ericaceae family, and they share many similarities.

Which is Which?

The key difference between these two popular landscaping plants is that heath blooms from winter to early spring while heather blooms from mid-summer to early fall. Heath features slim, needle-like foliage, while heather’s foliage is flatter and more scale-like. Heath generally only grows to 12 inches tall, while different heather cultivars can range from 8-20 inches tall. With their many similarities for location, soil type and sunlight, however, it is easy to grow these two shrubs together for a much longer and more brilliant flowering season.

Heath and Heather in the Landscape

Both heath and heather are low maintenance, low growing, perennial shrubs that love well-drained, acidic soil, but do not plant them too deeply or their shallow root systems may rot or smother. Heath, or spring heather, has tiny, urn shaped flowers in white, rose or fuchsia and is readily available in early spring. Heather will be more popular later in the season and into early summer, and its bell-like mauve, rose or lavender flowers provide lovely color to the landscape later in the season. Depending on the cultivar, heather’s foliage can range from bright green to golden yellow, reddish or even silvery-gray.

Both plants should be watered well, and mulching around the shrubs will help inhibit weeds and conserve moisture without overwatering. Pruning should be done just after blooming is finished to maintain and shape the plant mounds and discourage overgrowth and legginess.

Heath and heather look terrific planted en masse on a sunny hillside or in the shrub border with other acid-loving plants like azaleas and rhododendrons. They are a welcome addition to the rock garden and can brighten up a dwarf conifer grouping or container garden. Their mounding habit makes the plants easily spill over edges for a naturalized, graceful organic look ideal for cottage gardens and flowing landscape design.

It is important to note, however, that deer can be very attracted to both heath and heather. If these backyard visitors are a problem in your garden or pester your landscape, you may want to take a variety of steps to keep them away from your beautiful shrubs.

Planted together, heath and heather will provide you with a succession of dainty blooms to take you through the entire growing season.

If you have a black walnut tree on your property, you know how difficult it can be to find anything that will grow anywhere near this plant.

Black walnuts release a substance called juglone into the soil, which is toxic to many ornamental and edible plants and can stunt their growth significantly – in fact, juglone is used as a herbicide in some areas! A mature black walnut tree can have a toxic zone with up to an 80-foot radius, depending on the tree’s size and age. Every part of the walnut tree contains juglone and this substance remains in the soil long after the tree is cut down, continuing to inhibit anything that may be planted in its place.

Fortunately, there is a wide variety of plants that are less affected by juglone and can still thrive in contaminated soil. When choosing to plant in an area where a black walnut is located or where one once stood, it is safe to make your selection from the lists below.

Vegetables

• Beans
• Corn
• Carrots
• Melons
• Squash

Fruit

• Black Raspberry
• Cherry
• Nectarine
• Peach
• Pear
• Plum

Annuals

• Pot-marigold, Calendula officinalis
• Begonia, fibrous cultivars
• Morning Glory, Ipomoea
• Pansy, Viola
• Zinnia species

Perennials

• Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans
• Hollyhock, Alcea rosea
• European Wild Ginger, Asarum europaeum
• Astilbe species
• Bellflower, Campanula latifolia
• Leopard’s-Bane, Doronicum species
• Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum
• Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum
• Common Daylily, Hemerocallis
• Coral Bells, Heuchera
• Plantain-lily, Hosta
• Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica
• Balm, Monarda didyma
• Sundrops, Oenothera fruticosa
• Summer Phlox, Phlox paniculata
• Polyanthus Primrose, Primula x polyantha
• Lungwort, Pulmonaria species
• Showy Sedum, Sedum spectabile
• Lamb’s-Ear, Stachys byzantina
• Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginiana
• Horned Violet, Viola cornuta

Ferns

• Crested Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata
• Senstitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis
• Cinnamon Fern, Osmunda cinnamomea

Bulbs

• Glory-of-the-Snow, Chionodoxa luciliae
• Crocus species
• Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis
• Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis
• Spanish Bluebell, Hyacinthoides hispanica
• Grape Hyacinth, Muscari botryoides
• Siberian Squill, Scilla sibirica

Trees

• Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum
• Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis
• Canadian Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis

Vines and Shrubs

• Euonymus species
• Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus
• Honeysuckle, Lonicera species
• Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia
• Arborvitaes, Thuja species

Black walnut can be a challenging plant to have in your landscape, but if you understand the unique characteristics of this tree you can easily pair it with other plants that don’t mind its toxic effects.

It’s early spring – time to survey the damage that winter has produced. In some areas, shrubs may still be hiding under piles of frozen snow, and could be crushed or compacted. Severed tree limbs may lie scattered across the landscape, and bark may be torn and stripped from trunks. It’s difficult to know what to tackle first, but fortunately, much of the damage is easily correctible.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Trees

When surveying and repairing winter damage, start with your trees – they are generally the most valuable additions to your property. As you survey the damage – broken limbs, torn bark, a tilting trunk – ask yourself “Is this tree salvageable or should it be removed?” If the damage is extensive, or you are unsure about how the damage may affect the tree’s overall health or future growth, hire a professional for a consultation. Replacing a severely damaged tree with a younger one, perhaps a type you like even better, may be the best solution.

If a limb is broken somewhere along its length, or damaged beyond repair, employ good pruning practices and saw off the remaining piece at the branch collar, being careful not to cut into the trunk or leave a stub. Sometimes a fallen limb may strip bark off the tree trunk. To repair this damage, cut the ragged edges of the loose bark away from the stripped area to firmly affixed healthy bark. Nature will take care of the rest. Even if the trunk of the tree is split, the tree may still be saved. For large trees, repairing this type of damage usually requires cabling and bracing done by a professional. If the tree is still young, the crotch may be pulled tightly together and tied or taped until the wound eventually heals.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Shrubs

Shrubs can suffer the same damage as trees, including broken limbs and stripped bark. Heavy snowfall can crush smaller shrubs, and larger varieties may have their trunks or centers split from heavy snow or ice accumulation. Most shrubs are resilient, however, and slowly regain their shape as the weather warms. If branches are bent but not broken, you may tie them together to help them along and prevent further damage from late-season storms. Do not tie tightly and remove twine after about a year. Completely broken branches may be pruned away, but take care to maintain the shrub’s form and balance, keeping in mind its growth pattern so it will not look lopsided or ungainly. Again, if the damage is severe, you may need to replace the plant.

The harder the winter is, the more of a beating trees and shrubs will take. With prompt attention in early spring, however, you can easily undo much of the damage and help your landscape recover with ease.

There’s something about putting a tree in the ground that just feels right. In many cases, you start with just a bare trunk with a few branches and then, rather quickly, it begins sprouting new growth. You nurture your new acquisition and each year it increases in height and girth. Finally, one day, you look out the window and a magnificent mature tree is there to greet you!

Trees are a permanent addition to the landscape and therefore require more thought and planning in their selection. When choosing, you will need to consider how much space you have, both above and below the ground, and how large your tree will be at maturity. Large trees should be given the space that they need to grow and thrive.  Some have far reaching roots that, when planted in the wrong location, can damage plumbing and underground utilities as well as buckle nearby pavement. Poor planning may also lead to unwanted heavy branches towering dangerously over the roof of your home. To avoid these problems there is a plethora of small to medium trees available that look great and cause no damage when planted close to your house, sidewalk or driveway.

TREES FOR SMALL SPACES

Acer ginnala (Amur Maple)– multi-stemmed, rounded habit, bright red fall color, 15 – 20’h x 15 – 20’w

Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple) – upright, irregular habit, exfoliating bark, excellent red fall color, 20 – 30’h x 15 – 25’w

Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple) – numerous varieties, textures, colors and forms and sizes for every taste and situation

Aesculus pavia (Red Buckeye) – native, red upright flowers in May to early June, flowers attract hummingbirds, 10 – 20’h x 10 – 20’w

Amelanchier canadensis (Shadblow Serviceberry) – native, shrubby, multi-stemmed trunk tree, white flowers in early spring, edible purplish-black fruit, reddish-orange fall color, 6 – 15’h x 15 – 20’w

Betula pendula ‘Youngii’ (Young’s Weeping Birch) – strong weeping tendency, attractive white bark, yellow fall color, 8 – 12’h x 10’w

Carpinus caroliniana (American Hornbeam) – native, multi-stemmed, smooth muscular gray bark, yellow/red/orange fall color, 20 – 30’h x 20 – 30’w

Cercis Canadensis (Eastern Redbud) – native, often multi-stemmed, purple-pink flowers in early spring, 20 – 30’h x 20 – 30’w

Chionanthus viriginicus (Fringe Tree) – native, multi-stemmed, rounded habit, fringe-like white flowers in May to early June, golden-yellow fall color, 12 – 20’h x 12 – 20’w

Cornus alternifolia (Pagoda Dogwood) – native, tiered horizontal branching, white flowers late May – early June, blue-black fruit, persistent coral colored fruit stalks, yellow/reddish/purple fall color, 25’h x 25’w

Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood) – native, rounded habit, white or pink flowers in mid-May, reddish-purple fall color, 30’h x 30’w

Cornus kousa (Korean Dogwood) – rounded habit, vase shaped branching habit, flowers white aging to pink in early summer, red to purple fall color, 30’h x 30’w

Cornus mas (Cornelian Cherry Dogwood) – native, multi-stemmed, rounded habit, small yellow flowers in early spring, bright red berries in the summer eaten quickly by birds, 20’h x 20’w

Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’ (Winter King Hawthorn) – native, broad horizontal crown, white flowers in spring, yellow fall color, abundance of small red berries in winter, 15’h x 20’w

Halesia tetraptera (Carolina Silverbell) – native, irregular to rounded and broad shaped, pendulous white bell-shaped flowers in May, Smooth muscle-like bark, 30 – 40’h x 25 – 35’w

Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) – Multi-stemmed tree with oval habit, lightly fragrant showy white blooms in early spring, ornamental smooth silver-gray bark, 15 – 20’h x 10 – 15’w

Malus sargentii (Sargent crabapple) – Mounded habit, blooms April through early May, fragrant flowers, pink-red in bud opening to white, very showy deep red fruit held in clusters, 6 – 8’h x 9 – 12’w

Prunus cerasifera ‘Thundercloud’ (Thundercloud Plum) – Rounded habit, deep purple foliage all year around, slightly fragrant pink flowers in the spring, 20’h x 20’w

Stewartia koreana (Korean Stewartia) – pyramidal or oval in shape, white flowers in June and July, long bloom time, excellent fall color orange/yellow/red/purple, 25’h x 12’w

Stewartia ovate (Mountain Stewartia) – slow grower, dense with spreading branches, white flowers in July, orange to red fall color, 10 – 15’h x 10 – 15’w

Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia) – slow grower, pyramidal, solitary white camellia-like flowers June – August, excellent fall color yellow/red/purple, beautiful exfoliating camouflage bark exposed in the winter, 40’h x 20’w

Styrax japonica (Japanese Snowbell) – horizontal branching, broad flat topped at maturity, hanging white flowers from late May into June, good fall color of yellow with a reddish cast, 20 – 30’h x 20 – 30’w

Syringa reticulate (Japanese Tree Lilac) – stiff spreading branches, fragrant showy white flowers borne in early summer on panicles up to 1′ long and up to 10” wide, 20 – 20’h x 15 – 15’w

From the ancient palace gardens of China comes an elegant empress, the tree peony. Native to China, the tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) has been grown by Chinese herbalists, gardeners and nobility for more than 1,500 years. In 1994, China named this beauty as its national flower, giving it a treasured place in history and sparking more interest in its botanical nature worldwide.

In recent years, tree peonies have become increasingly popular and more readily available for landscape use. This plant is distinctly different from the herbaceous peony that we are so familiar with in our American perennial beds. The tree peony is a deciduous woody plant with fern-like foliage that produces larger flowers two weeks earlier than its perennial partner. These blossoms come in a wide range of shapes, colors and fragrances depending on the cultivar, providing great variety to suit any landscape.

Tree Peony Particulars 

Not sure if the tree peony will be best for your landscape? Learning more about these exotic beauties can help you decide if you want to welcome one to your yard.

• This slow-growing woody shrub grows 4-10 feet tall with distinctive, silken blossoms in a multitude of shapes, colors and fragrances.
• Flowers best with most vigorous blooms in dappled shade with 3-4 hours of filtered sunlight per day.
• Tree peonies require a site with good drainage amended with plenty of organic matter. Space plants at least 4 feet apart to provide good air circulation.
• Prefers a soil pH range of 6.5-7.0. Use organic mulch or added sulfur to lower the pH level if necessary for the best nutrition.
• Tree Peonies are heavy feeders. Do not fertilize the first year. Foliar feed in the spring of the second year when the leaves emerge with an organic fertilizer. Fertilize again after blooming and again in the fall before dormancy. Spread organic material (compost or manure) around the base of the plant each spring and gently work into the soil for slowly-released nutrition.
• Virtually pest- and disease-free if planted in a good location with organically-rich soil to feed from.
• Deadhead after blooming and clean up fallen leaves in autumn to keep the tree looking its best in every season.
• Prefers to be transplanted in the fall if moving is necessary, or plant new specimens in fall to allow them to establish before winter.

Once your tree peony is established it will reward you each year with an abundance of glorious blooms, bringing exotic flair and distinction to your landscape.